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Country Dossier for Kenya

The Facts

Brief History
Kenya’s proximity to the Arabian Peninsular invited colonisation, and Arab traders frequented the Kenyan coast from the 1st century AD with settlements established by the 8th century. Nilotic and Bantu people moved in to the region during the 1st millennium AD and Bantu people now comprise three quarters of Kenya’s population with Swahili, a Bantu language, being the main language today.
 
In the 16th Century, the Portuguese arrived with the United Kingdom establishing it’s major influence in the 19th Century. Independence from the British happened on 12 December 1963 and a year later, Jomo Kenyatta became Kenya’s first president. (The International airport in Nairobi is named after him).  Today’s president is Mwai Kibaki.

Visas
Currently EU, US, Canadian, Australian and New Zealand citizens all need a visa to enter Kenya. It is your own responsibility to check all visa requirements before travelling and obtain them in advance as required. For many nationalities visas can be obtained on the borders however you should contact the embassy for further information.

We have been advised that Kenya is now strictly enforcing a "blank pages, condition of entry", similar to that recently enforced in South Africa. This means that all those requiring a visa to enter Kenya must have at least two blank pages available in their passport upon arrival. Failure to meet this requirement may result in an entry visa being refused. We urge you to make sure your passport meets these conditions.

IMPORTANT: GBP (£) are not accepted at the border so bring approx US$ 50 cash for visa expenses at the border.

Arrival in Nairobi
For specific information and directions regarding the joining hotel for your tour please refer to the joining letter which will be sent to you with your final tour vouchers.

Money
Prices quoted in this country dossier are in United States Dollars (US$), unless otherwise specified.

Please note: It is very important to ensure that you obtain enough US$ cash to cover your local payment, visas and optional excursions before you travel. It can be very difficult to obtain US$ in Africa, even in major cities like Cape Town. Tour leaders cannot accept any notes that are marked, torn or older than the year 2002, and you may have difficulty exchanging these notes elsewhere in Africa, so please check your cash carefully at the point of purchase.

Local Currency
The monetary unit in Kenya is the Kenyan Shilling. For up to date exchange rates with your own currency visit www.oanda.com or www.xe.com. For more information generally about the best way to carry your money please see the ‘Africa pre departure information booklet (which will be sent to you with confirmation of your booking).

In general, Visa is the only credit card that will work everywhere in Africa. Master Card, AMEX and Cirrus will work in some countries but not in others.

We recommend that you bring cash/travellers cheques in US Dollars only. When changing money, it is a good idea if at all possible, to get small denomination notes and coins in the local currency as often there is a lack of change when you are making purchases and no-one in Africa ever seems to have change. On arrival at Nairobi International Airport we suggest that you withdraw some Kenyan Shillings at the ATM or change some money at the bank if you only have US dollars or travellers cheques. Change enough money to see you through the first few days of your trip – particularly if it is a weekend. Please note that it is not possible to withdraw US$ from ATM machines in Africa, only local currency.

Working Out Your Budget
Our Africa pre departure information includes a general list of all the things you should take into consideration when budgeting and an estimate of what you should allow per day for spending money. Below are some specific notes relevant to our trips in Kenya.

Optional Excursions
Most excursions and entrance fees are NOT included in the local payment and you can therefore choose as many or as few optional excursions as you like! A full list of the main excursions available on each tour can be found on the optional excursions guide, available to download from our website. All prices given are approximate and are likely to change due to local inflation or exchange rates.

Entrance Fees
Generally speaking most entrance fees will not be included. If you have an International Student Card you will often be entitled to reduced entrance fees.

Local Transport
Taxis are recommended for all journeys within a city. In Kenya, taxi meters are not normally in evidence, so you will find yourself engaging in a bit of haggling with the driver to agree upon the fare. This can be fun, but it is a good idea to find out in advance, from your tour leader or the hotel receptionist, approximately how much the fare should be. You will almost certainly have to accept that you will pay more than the Kenyans do.

Matatus are by far the most common means of transportation in Kenya. They leave from designated spots called stages but only when the matatu is full. Matatus can also be caught from the road. If one is passing, stick out your arm with your palm down. This is the sign you want to be picked up. If the vehicle is not full, the driver will pull over to let you in.
There are at least two people that run every matatu: a driver and a tout. Touts can be very aggressive and rude. Don't let a tout take your bag from you, and make your own decision about which vehicle to take. Never pay for a ticket before you get on a matatu – always board first and ask other customers what they are paying so you don’t get ripped off. It is not recommended to take matatus at night.

Geography & Weather
Kenya is comparable in size to France, with the climate varying from tropical on the Indian Ocean Coast to arid in the interior. From the coast are low plains that rise to the Central Highlands which in turn are bisected by the Great Rift Valley running from north to south of the country. Mount Kenya is found in the highlands and is the second highest point in Africa (5199m) after Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania (5895m – Uhuru Peak on the Kibo summit).

There are two rainy seasons in Kenya – the long rains from April to June and the short rains from October to December. The rainfall is sometimes heavy and often falls in the afternoons and evenings. The hottest period is from February to March and the coolest in July and August.

If you want to see the annual migration, it usually occurs between June and September.

Check the weather chart on our website or visit www.worldclimate.com to get an idea of what the weather will be like on your trip.

Security
Overall, crime is not a great problem in Kenya, but Nairobi does have a reputation for robberies. This does not mean that you should be afraid to leave your hotel, but it does mean that in certain areas of the city you need to exercise caution or avoid them altogether and try to avoid travelling alone after dark. Don’t walk around lonely back streets, especially on your own, don’t wear expensive looking jewellery or a classy watch and don’t carry a wallet in your back pocket. Don’t carry your camera openly; always have it in a small day pack which is firmly attached to your body, preferably in the front in crowded places. Always wear a money belt or leave your valuables, including your passport, in the hotel security box.

Photography
Caution should be taken when taking photos in and around the city. Locals should always be asked prior to taking a photo and it is not uncommon for them to ask for a small donation. Never take photos of police, military personal or buildings. The same goes for any government buildings, banks, post offices or the railway station.

IMPORTANT: Please do not take photos of the Masaii people without asking their permission. If they agree it is likely that they will expect payment.

Food & Drink
Some meals are included when camping and lunch is usually included on travelling days in the truck. When staying in hotels or hostels, all meals are at your own expense. As a guideline a simple snack (e.g. a sandwich) can cost as little as US$1.50 and a light meal will cost around US$3-6. A meal in one of the best restaurants in Nairobi will however set you back $20-30 as Nairobi is a relatively expensive city compared with other African cities. Obviously this depends on what you order and if you have wine or other drinks which will certainly increase the bill. In cheaper restaurants where Kenyans and backpackers eat, you can get meals for as little as US$2.

All drinks such as water, soft or alcoholic drinks are at your own expense at all times. The following is a guideline for drinks bought at the campsites that we use. If bought from shops in the street, prices are likely to be cheaper, but in restaurants and hotels can sometimes be more than double the prices specified below;

1 litre of water - US$1.50                              
30cl bottle of soft drink - US$0.70            
30cl bottle of beer - US$1.20
50cl bottle of beer - US$1.70
(All glass bottles taken away from shops in Kenya will have a deposit added on which varies.)

You should be wary of drinking the local tap water. Bottled water, carbonated soft drinks and fruit juices are widely available and are generally safe to drink. Please note however that fruit juices are sometimes made with un-boiled tap water and could upset your stomach.

There are various brands of beers found only in Kenya including Tusker Premium / Export, Pilsner and Citizen. Most of the campsites / hostels that we use have bars or serve alcoholic drinks. If there is not a bar in the campsite / hostel then there is sure to be one within walking distance. Beware imported spirit prices as they are very expensive so always ask for the local equivalent spirit if you want to remain within your budget!

Important: On 8 July 2008 the Tobacco Control Act came into force in Kenya.  This prohibits smoking in public places except for designated smoking areas. Heavy fines and possibly imprisonment will be imposed for those violating the Act. Be careful where you light up and pay attention to signage. Bars and restaurants are expected to have separate areas designated for smokers.

Typical Local Meals
In Kenya the basic diet focuses around chicken, beef or seafood, mostly served with rice, boiled potatoes, Ugali (made from maize flour) and possibly chips or salad. On the coast, dishes are mainly seafood based and this region is also well know for its curry. (A coconut crab curry over looking the Indian Ocean is hard to beat, as are barbequed prawns, tuna or swordfish straight from the sea.) For a quick snack, meat or veggie samosas and chapattis are widely available. Nyama Choma is widely popular and you can find it in every town. Roasted beef or goat meat is either severed on a stick and roasted, or fried and dished up in a plastic or paper bag at the roadside. In restaurants you can try Nyama Choma with Ugali, Saladi (cabbage, onion, carrots, green peppers and chilli all very finely chopped) , local spinach or Irio (seasoned puree of peas, corn and potatoes).   

Maize, potatoes, local spinach, carrots, peas, yams and different varieties of beans are Kenya’s main vegetables – particularly around the equator region.

Vegetarians
If you are a strict vegetarian you may experience a distinct lack of variety in the food available, especially in small towns. You might find that you are eating a lot of omelettes and other egg dishes. Our tour leaders will do their best to provide interesting vegetarian alternatives when arranging group meals in the campsite, but your patience and understanding is requested.

Tipping
In most Kenyan restaurants a 10% service charge and a 2% training levy is included on the bill. Always check the bill to make sure and unless you get exceptional service, it is not necessary to give a further tip. Please note there is also VAT added onto all food bills, and this is not always included in the price on the menu. You should take both of these charges into account when reading the menu and check that all taxes are included, as sometimes nearly 30% can be added onto the bill at the end. You do not need to tip taxi drivers but you should tip people who assist you with your luggage at hotels and hostels. (Don’t over-tip US$1.00 - US$1.50 is usually enough). Tipping guides at the end of excursions and treks etc is always appreciated and your tour leader will advise you on the amount for this

Shopping
Haggling is expected in Kenya and hunting for bargains can be a real highlight. For tips on bargaining and shopping etiquette please see the pre departure information.

Your best buys are soap stone and hard wooden carvings as well as batiks (wall hangings), sarongs, Masaii blankets, hats, and of course tee shirts.
Nairobi city market is good for the above but is becoming expensive so bartering is essential and please beware of pickpockets and scam artists. Once on the road, Naivasha and Nakuru have some good markets and they are generally cheaper than Nairobi and much more relaxing as a place to shop.

National Holidays
1 Jan - New Year's Day.
10 Apr - Good Friday.
13 Apr - Easter Monday.
1 May - Labour Day.
1 Jun  - Madaraka Day.
10 Oct - Moi Day.
21 Sep - Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan).
20 Oct - Kenyatta Day.
28 Nov - Feast of the Sacrifice.
12 Dec - Independence Day.
This is generally regarded as Kenya’s most important holiday as it marks the date of Kenya’s establishment as a republic on 12th December 1964 and also full independence from the United Kingdom one year earlier on 12th December 1963. There are usually cultural celebrations and festivities across the country.
25 Dec - Christmas Day
26 Dec- Boxing Day

Please remember that on public holidays, banks, museums and shops will be closed and often public transport is less frequent than usual.

Emergency Contact
In the case of an emergency please contact our East & Southern Africa Destination Manager on: +44 (0) 78 9984 3645 (please be considerate of time differences).

Please note that this number is a service for emergency calls only. We respectfully request that you consider the urgency of your enquiry. Non-urgent enquiries should be made during office hours. Please be considerate of time zones.

Alternatively please contact our Operations department at the Tucan Travel office in London (office hours - 9am to 5.30pm local time):
Tel: +44 (0) 208 896 6700 
Fax: +44 (0) 208 896 6701

Last Updated 21/12/09

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